I know I've seen this listed before...but I can't seem to find it. Where exactly do you connect a remote LED on the header? Also, do I need to place a resistor inline with the LED? Sorry if this question has been answered numerous times, but I'm having no luck.
I can't recall when we were discussing that. I found the pictures of the LEDs I made with the current limiting resistor, but I can't find the post. I looked for about a half hour but couldn't find it. My posts about it are in a thread about some pretty fancy cases. I just can't recall who, what, when, where, it was. It was last summer and I think the thread header was "my cases" or "my custom cases" or something like that. If you go to my posts in my profile and scroll back you might find it. I've been looking when I could since I first saw your post but I'm not having any luck. I wish these headaches would go away so I could get my memory back in order.
I'll try to look for a little bit right now, but the wife is trying to get the wireless printer working and I might get pre-empted for that so she can print her haunted corn maze tix printed...LOL
J
____________________ Evan... Are you at home resting yet? I'm very glad you're feeling better!
there is a post from two years ago, I saved it on an old computer, and now I can't find either. It talked about soldering a resistor up to R5 and connecting a LED to that. Was in a thread about custom boxes
I am not the guy to ask about resistors and types of LED to use here.
____________________ ---> 160 LOR : 96 DIO : (2) Lamp Timers : EDM Trans
---> 25,000 up...5,000 to go
That's the one Chuck. I just ran through every one of my posts. Lord, will someone please cut my fingers off for all that drivel... I must've missed it. I just looked at the metadata on the pic of the remote led and it was dated 3/10/08. So the post has to be around that timeframe. Still looking.
Jeff
____________________ Evan... Are you at home resting yet? I'm very glad you're feeling better!
OK, Here's the thread with the pics of Duke's CTB-16PC with the remote status leds connected, but I can't find the info where he connected them. You've got to scroll around to see his boxes with the LED added. He also has a couple licks to other threads about the box layout. I'm sure a PM to him will help get the right answer. Whew. Now the headaches are really bad! I didn't think I'd ever find that out.
Jeff
____________________ Evan... Are you at home resting yet? I'm very glad you're feeling better!
I asked this question to Dan, and he mentioned that an alternative would be to relocate the existing LED to the enclosure.
He will check on it to see if there is an alternative.
The pics on that one particular thread looks like he is taking the LED signal from the existing one off of the board, tapping off of another component from the board.
On a 16 pin header the pin closest to the LED is one lead and the opposite corner of the header is ground. It's been a while, but I think that requires a current limiter to keep from trashing the remote LED. There wasn't an issue adding a remote status LED with the CTB16D (deluxe) boards. The ones that were difficult to pick up were those without rotary unit id switches. They require a jumper from input1 to the LED pin, so that trumps connecting to that pin.
The posts I linked to were centered around the jumper problem. One quick note: Adding a remote status indicator to the outside of a controller case has two very obvious negative effects. 1) It makes a bunch of little brightly colored lights scattered around your display that can't be dimmed or controlled. 2) It makes a bunch of little brightly colored lights scattered around your display that direct the attention of possible vandals and theives right to your controller. Just some food for thought...
Jeff
____________________ Evan... Are you at home resting yet? I'm very glad you're feeling better!
My controllers are all up high under the eaves, so no one would see the little red LEDs. My house is so far from the street, no one would be able to see them anyways.
Jeff (and others), thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it.
Jeff...I agree with you about the negatives. The reason I'm interested in this is that my boards are located in a big enclosure in my garage. I would like to be able to just glance out the door and verify the status without having to physically open the cabinet. I'd rather keep the cabinet closed/locked to prevent my children from gaining access to the high voltage inside.
