I just started building the new kit and R17 was marked by a tab which matches the color code yellow-violet-yellow-gold. The photo of the completed board on page 12 shows a different resister yellow-violet-violet-gold, which is also in my box of parts, but has no mention in the parts list? Which one should I use for R17? and why was the second resister mentioned not included in parts list?
JDLitesUpKT wrote: I just started building the new kit and R17 was marked by a tab which matches the color code yellow-violet-yellow-gold. The photo of the completed board on page 12 shows a different resister yellow-violet-violet-gold, which is also in my box of parts, but has no mention in the parts list? Which one should I use for R17? and why was the second resister mentioned not included in parts list?
Not sure what kit you are putting together. I noticed that the CTB16DK had a picture on page 12 and the CTB16PC did not (using the online versions of the documents).
R17 (470K) is marked by a tab with "R17" written on it. It is Yellow Violet Yellow..... Also in the parts list you will see that R17 is described as being Yellow Violet Yellow. In the manual there is also a restistor chart that describes a 470K resistor as being Yellow Violet Yellow.
I looked at the all manuals and did not see a Yellow Violet Violet in a picture. Is it possible that there is a coloration issue in the print.
You should go by the parts list....
There is not a yellow violet violet resistor in the kit but there is a yellow violet brown. That is R5....
Read my post further up the thread - the light you are using in your work room can and will change the identifier color bands. Get out your trusty flashlight and have a look under a different light - it will amaze you especially if you have a fluorescent light above your head.
I just got done putting 9 boards together, and they all tested ok! I want to thank Mary for the quick turnaround on a part I needed. I started with 2 fishing boxes with 16 compartmets each, then I labled each one as on page 9 the parts list. this did 2 things for me first it made sure that all the right parts were there, and second I did't have to look around for the part when it came time to assemble. I also bought on E-Bay a Weller soldering station. ( well worth the bucks ) I only mesed up on one board, It was my third one and I got over confident and put R1 where R15 went. I tried every thing I new how toget it out , but ended up cutting it. What a mistake that was. I later talked to my brother ( elec. eng. ) he told me they use a biology pick it's cheep and works great to open the holes, he also advise me to wash off all the boards when done using new acid brush with the brisles cut short using alcohol, he claims that the rozin will eat the board over a long time. well it's time to try to program my light show, it's the first time for that to. OH! bought 10 but one was compled for a copy.
quackgr wrote: [snip] he also advise me to wash off all the boards when done using new acid brush with the brisles cut short using alcohol, he claims that the rozin will eat the board over a long time[snip]
Gerald
Sounds like you did a good job!
The solder supplied with the LOR kits is not rosin core... It is a more expensive no-clean solder. It does not hurt at all to clean things when you are finished but the residue will not harm the board.
Got major problem. Computer that initialized the boards went down. I've got to use another computer to do the progamming and run the show. Do I have to now reprogram all ten boards to the new computer for the com ports? Also with Media player 11 and not using show director, do I have to have any other downloads to synchronize the show?
quackgr wrote: Got major problem. Computer that initialized the boards went down. I've got to use another computer to do the progamming and run the show. Do I have to now reprogram all ten boards to the new computer for the com ports? Also with Media player 11 and not using show director, do I have to have any other downloads to synchronize the show?
Gerald
You do not need to do anything to the cards. Not sure what you mean by "not using show director" But if you load the LOR software on another PC and you have your audio files and sequence files then you are ready to go.
The sequence files may need to be re-pointed to the audio files on the new machine. To do this, use the Sequence Editor: Open the sequence then click Edit->Audio File and select the audio file associated with this sequence. (This is only necessary if you get an error message when you attempt to play the sequence in the Sequence Editor).
I have built a couple of the ctb16pc complete kits here lately and they go together very well. They have worked right from plugging them in. Advice to help I would give is.
1. As much as (me) or any guy hates is read the manual first. be familiar with it before you start.
2. i use a white sheet or pillow case and lay it out on the table and this helps eliminate and parts rolling around and they stand out more if you lay them out. Just be careful to secure it somehow tape or something so it does not get snagged on something and wonder off attached to you or someone.
3. use a tray or egg carton or some type of container and separate your parts to help in locating them when ready for that particular part in assembly.
4. plenty of light and as mentioned earlier a magnifying glass helps allot in checking joints and in connecting them.
5. if you are going to do allot of soldering invest in a good quality iron or soldering station if you can.
6. double check the identity of each component before soldering it to the board.
Like i said the pc kit goes together well and was fun. just take your time limit distractions, take breaks rest mind, body, soul, and eyes (:laughing and you will have something to be proud of and that works in the end.
One thing that I've noticed. These kits go together very easy UNTILL ........
Your 8 year old tries to help:laughing:
Yup it happened. He tried to help and I had to get more parts from LOR. They mysteriously dissappeared. I guess its all my fault though I got him interested taking stuff apart. He started with our old pc and now if he sees "micro chips" he just has to check them out. I'm hoping he'll soon be able to put things back together
The good thing is he might actually start programming some sequences this year.
Yes, another dope here. On 3rd PC board this weekend, and got rushed and soldered the IC chip backwards. For some strange reason, did not check it twice. For all those you make a mistake like this, put down the soldering gun, go get a glass of wine and chill for a while. It is not worth throwing the board of gun, or both accross the room.
The reason I am writing, is to let you all know I found a way of unsoldering a multi pin part that works pretty good. I used a can of compresed gas duster to blow out the solder after I re-heated it. Worked pretty good.
Now I just need to finish the tri-acs and try it out. Hoping I did not damage the board when re-heating alot.
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cenote wrote: The reason I am writing, is to let you all know I found a way of unsoldering a multi pin part that works pretty good. I used a can of compresed gas duster to blow out the solder after I re-heated it. Worked pretty good.
Great idea! I had some parts that needed to be desoldered and had been contemplating (rather procrastinating) a way to do it. I got a can from work and gave it a shot and it works like a charm! Thanks for a very good tip. I was considering buying a desoldering station with vacuum, but this works better than the ones I've used before.
Jeff Millard wrote: cenote wrote: The reason I am writing, is to let you all know I found a way of unsoldering a multi pin part that works pretty good. I used a can of compresed gas duster to blow out the solder after I re-heated it. Worked pretty good.
Great idea! I had some parts that needed to be desoldered and had been contemplating (rather procrastinating) a way to do it. I got a can from work and gave it a shot and it works like a charm! Thanks for a very good tip. I was considering buying a desoldering station with vacuum, but this works better than the ones I've used before.
Jeff Sounds like a good idea, only one thing I can see being a problem. What happens to the solder that gets blown all over the place. If you do this in a highly populated area of the board (not that LOR boards have that many parts on them), you could create a solder bridge where you don't want one, with the expelled solder...just a thought. Solder suckers sound like a better idea, although sometimes are a little tricky to get working. They are cheap though. I'm talking about the kind that look like a big needle, not the bulb type. With the needle type, you click the top down, then when you are ready to suck the solder up, you push a button on the side. Works pretty well, and I think most Radio Shacks carry them.
